ACHILL ISLAND
Acaill and also Oileán Acla
Achill, County Mayo

Achill is Ireland's largest island. It's 13.5 miles long by 12 miles wide and is reached by the Michael Davitt Bridge, a single-lane swing-bridge, that crosses Achill Sound from the Curraun Peninsula on the mainland. Michael Davitt was born in 1846, at the height of the Great Famine, in a village called Straide in the center of County Mayo. He was an Irish republican and nationalist agrarian agitator, a social campaigner, labour leader, journalist, Home Rule constitutional politician and MP in the House of Commons of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, and who founded the Irish National Land League. The bridge was officially opened it in 1887 in his honor.

Based on a paddle found during excavations on a crannóg near Dookinella, it's believed that humans settled on Achill Island as early as 4000BC. Estimations state that there were between 500-1000 people living on Achill at the time. The

island would have been mostly forest until Neolithic people began crop cultivation. The population continued to grow through the Iron Age. Small forts were built around the islands coast that hint at the warlike nature of the times. This continued into the medieval period when Granuaile, Grace O'Malley, built a castle at Kildavnet in the 16th century.

Cromwell's armies moved across Ireland between 1649-1653, forcing mass migration to the west, including to Achill. This resulted in the island becoming somewhat multicultural. In fact, an 1824 census recorded two distinct language dialects on the island. The island still has many traces of Ulster Irish spoken today.

The Irish Famine, aka the Great Hunger, wasn't just a mainland problem. Before this time, the island boasted 6,000 residents. In 2006,

the population was just 2,700. Today there are few permanent homes that date before the 20th century. This is due to not just famine emigration, but also to inhospitable weather on the island and the modern building boom that saw the construction of many holiday home that are only occupied in the summer months, mostly by tourists. As well, holiday caravan parks have become an eyesore on the landscape.

A drive through Keel Village toward Slievemore will take you to the Deserted Village. Along the mountain slope is a small village in ruin with several deserted stone houses. It's unknown exactly why this village was deserted, but in all likelihood it was the famine and difficult weather conditions that had something to do with it.

The most spectacular views can be found on Minaun Heights. This hill is accessed via a long hillside road that winds up to the car park. The best views are seen from the west side of the hill. Views to the west include Keel village and Keel Strand, AKA Trawmore Strand. This is the largest beach on Achill Island and one of SIX Blue Flag Beaches on the island (as of 2008). The other five include:

• Carrowmore Strand on the southern tip of the island and location of Kildavnet Castle
• Dooega Strand, which lies at the back of Minaun Heights
• Keem Bay, which is at the most westerly end of the island and is a sheltered cove surrounded by Croaghaun Mountain and Moyteoge Head
• Dugort on the north side of the island are two beaches with the Blue Flag, Silver Strand and Golden Strand

At the back of Minaun Heights, visitors will see a gently sloping hillside down to Knockmore where turf is still cut by hand. The island is 87% peat bog. While on the island you will notice some of the older turf cutting areas with gnarled white formations showing through. It's hard to believe, but at one time Ireland had many dense forests and woods. One such forest thrived on Achill until the trees were felled by mass deforestation that took place after English occupation starting eight hundred of years ago. What you see in the bog today are the bleached and preserved root systems of the oaks that once thrived here. They are known as bog oaks.

Motorists can take Atlantic Drive, which is a coastal drive that starts just after crossing the Sound and and travels northwest to Dooega, then cuts inland where visitors will see the sign for Minaun Heights.

Continuing along the main road through the island is the village is Keel. From the strand one will see Minaun Heights, with Cathedral Rocks below. Continue on the main road to Keem Bay.

There are some stunning and very remote parts of the island. One such location is Annagh on the northernmost side of the island. It's only accessed by foot over rocky hills, or by boat. Lough Nakeeroge East is surrounded on three sides by steep cliffs and is a fresh water lake. It's also the lowest corrie lake in Ireland at just 16 meters above sea level Just steps from the lake is the strand, which is mostly rocky and only revealed at low tide. The word corrie is derived from the Old Norse word tjörn meaning pond, which are formed from glaciers. The resulting pool of fresh water is begins its life from glacial runoff.

What also makes Annagh a focal point on the island is it's rich in folklore and is the setting for many ghoulish stories involving ghosts and apparitions. Certainly those of a more superstitious disposition should avoid camping overnight in Annagh, as more than one such party has reported ghostly encounters!

~ Free car parking available
~ The Deserted Village is open to the public without admission charges. Visitors are asked to respect the site, to leave it in good condition and remember that there are loose stones on the cottages so take care for your safety.
~ restricted access, unsuitable for those with physical challenges, unpaved paths