KILKENNY CASTLE
Caisleán Chill Chainnigh
Kilkenny, County Kilkenny

There has been a fortress on this site since the 840s when the land around Kilkenny was ruled by local kings, the O'Carrolls, O'Dunphys and Fitzpatricks. Richard "Strongbow" de Clare led the first Norman invasion of Ireland in 1170. Subsequently, the first Norman keep was constructed here in 1172. This was a timber keep, as was traditional in Ireland at the time. But twenty years later, it was de Clare's son-in-law William Marshal, Earl of Pembroke, aka the Greatest Knight in England, who built the first stone keep. Three of the original four towers exist today. The original entrance into the castle grounds was through the gatehouse in the now missing east wall. During excavations other original features were discovered, including original stone buttressing and a garderobe...a medieval toilet.

Note: The Norman's are responsible for introducing a large number of names into Irish history, including the Butler's, who changed their name from Walter when they arrived into Ireland in 1185.

The castle was owned by Sir Gilbert de Bohun, the steward of Kilkenny, who inherited the county of Kilkenny and the castle from his mother in 1270. In 1300 de Bohun was outlawed by Edward I, but reinstated just three years later, holding it until his death in 1381. De Bohun's heir did not

inherit the castle. It was seized by the crown and sold to the Butler family. The Burtler's had become a wealthy family and James Butler, 3rd Earl of Ormonde, bought the castle and established himself as the ruler of the area. The Butler dynasty ruled the area for centuries.

By the 17th century, the castle came into the hands of Elizabeth Preston who was wife of Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, James Butler, who was also the 12th Earl and 1st Duke of Ormonde. The Butler's were Protestants and throughout the Irish Confederate Wars, also called the Eleven Years War (1641-1653), and were the representatives of Charles I in Ireland.

During a period known as Confederate Ireland (1641-1649) the castle became the capital of the Catholic Rebel Movement. Their parliament, or Supreme Council, met at Kilkenny Castle. Butler was based in Dublin at this time.

Note: Confederate Ireland refers to a period of Irish self-government between wars, the Rebellion of 1641 and the Cromwellian Conquest of 1649. Two-thirds of Ireland at that time was governed by the Irish Catholic Confederation, also known as the Confederation

of Kilkenny.

During the Cromwellian Conquest, in 1650, the east wall (seen right) and northeast tower of the castle were damage during the Siege of Kilkenny. They were subsequently torn down. By 1661, Butler had returned to the castle. He remodeled the castle as a modern château, with a new entrance built into the south wall.

By the 18th century, the castle had become tired and run down, which reflected the failing Butler fortunes. It was Anne Wandesford of Castlecomber who undertook to restore the castle, as she was the wife of John Butler, the 17th Earl of Ormonde, and she brought with her a sizable dowry.

In the early 19th century, the Butlers attempted to restore the castle to its medieval appearance, including rebuilding the north wing and extending the south curtain wall. And there were more extensions in 1854.
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Aerial picture
courtesy Kilkenny Castle

During the Irish Civil War in 1922, which followed the Easter Rising, also known as the 1916 Uprising, the castle was besieged by Republicans of the Irish Free State Forces. Rather than flee, as many others had at this time, the Ormonde's, with their pet Pekinese dog, chose to remain in the castle, hiding in their bedroom over the great gate, which happened to be the main focus of the attack. While there were weapons to protect the family, one man was injured and the castle suffered such great damage that it took many years to repair. The Butler's were fortunate, as many other families who'd suffered at the hands of the Republicans didn't fare as well.

The Butler's remained at Kilkenny Castle until 1935, when they sold all of the castle's contents for £6000. They moved to London, leaving the castle abandoned for thirty years. Rising tax, death duties, economic depression and the cost of living had taken their toll. While they had received £22,000 in rental income in the 1880s, that investment income in the 1930s had dropped to around £9000. By the 1950s, their investments only yielded them £850. They eventually sold the bulk of their investments in counties Tipperary and Kilkenny by 1915 for £240,000, around 21,000 acres. The death duties and expenses following the death of James Butler, 3rd Marquess of Ormonde, in 1919 amounted to £166,000, taking about 60% of their assets.

Things finally came to an end in 1967 when Arthur Butler, 6th Marquess and 24th Earl of Ormonde, sold the abandoned castle to the Castle Restoration Committee of a mere £50, stating: "The people of Kilkenny, as well as myself and my family, feel a great pride in the Castle, and we have not liked to see this deterioration. We determined that it should not be allowed to fall into ruins. There are already too many ruins in Ireland." He bought the land in front of the castle from the trustees "in order that it should never be built on and the castle would be seen in all its dignity and splendour". The castle's hand-over party included many notable people, including Mick Jagger and Marianne Faithfull. Mick is reported to have told the newspapers, "We just came to loon about." Jagger spend a good

deal of time in Ireland, especially at Charleville Castle in Tullamore, County Offaly.

The castle was completely restored in the 20th century and opened to visitors. The Butler Gallery, which is housed in the castle basement, holds rotating exhibitions hosted by the Kilkenny Art Gallery Society.

Highlights of the guided tour include the library, wood paneled dining room, and the Chinese bedroom. The

Long Gallery is by far the most impressive. Just off the lovely Moorish stairwell, the Long Gallery features dozens of original Pre-Raphaelite and Pre-Raphaelite inspired painting and tapestries. The ceiling is a fine 19th century creation with hand painted hammer beams and leaded glass skylights.

Be sure to visit the Celtic Garden at the back of the castle, so named for its layout, which is the shape of a Celtic High Cross. A fountain is the central feature.

Note: Photography is not allowed. You will be asked to leave your camera in their secure room. You will be given a numbered ticket to retrieve it when you're ready to leave the castle.


Long Gallery


Celtic Garden
see aerial above
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~ Pay attraction
~ Parking available
~ Moderate access, the walking tour uses stairs to view upper chambers

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