FERNS HISTORIC VILLAGE
Fearna, alder trees
Ferns, County Wexford


Ferns Castle

The diocese of Ferns was founded around 598AD when King Brandubh Uí Cinsealaigh gave a grant of land to Maodhóg who became first bishop in the area at that time. To give the founding perspective, Dun Laoghaire in south County Dublin was founded just one hundred years previously, in 498AD, and is the oldest founded town in Ireland.

Around 697AD, St. Moling founded a holy well in Ferns in Maodhóg's memory, Maodhóg's Well. Maodhóg later became St. Aiden and is the patron saint of Ferns.

By the 10th century, Ferns was the seat for the Kings of Leinster, and as was typical of the time, suffered numerous attacks from rival clans hoping to upset the kingdom and taking it for themselves.

The course of Ireland's history changed in 1169, during the reign of Dermot MacMurrough (Diarmait Mac Murchada in Irish, also Diarmaid na nGall or "Dermot of the Foreigners"), King of Leinster, whose seat of power was at Ferns.

About forty years previous, King Turlough O'Connor (Tairrdelbach mac Ruaidri Ua Conchobair in Irish) wished to see the then sixteen year old King of Leinster unseated. He sent Tiernan O'Rourke (Tigernán Ua Ruairc in Irish), King of Briefne, and his seasoned warriors to perform the task. At the time, MacMurrough didn't have the ability to retain control of his lands, but by 1133 he'd won back his throne, even managing to expand his kingdom slightly. MacMurrough was able to retain his kingdom through future skirmishes, but remain aloof from the rest of Ireland, and O'Connor.

Unknown to historians, O'Connor contacted MacMurrough and made some deal that involved their joining to engage O'Rourke. They did join together and laid siege to O'Rourke's kingdom, plundering farms and setting fire to his castle. The battle ended as quickly as it began. On his way home, MacMurrough came across O'Rourke's wife, Dervogilla, and took her home with him. She remained with him for a year before MacMurrough returned her to O'Rourke.

O'Rourke never forgave MacMurrough for what he saw as a kidnapping and bided his time until the right opportunity came to exact his revenge. That opportunity came when Muirchertach O'Lochlainn, then Ard Rí and MacMurrough's staunch supporter, died in 1166. Blinded by bloodlust, O'Rourke unleashed his fury across Leinster, MacMurrough barely escaping with life, and some of his supporters when they fled to France.

The Norman Invasion

It was while in France that MacMurrough met Henry II, King of England, and sought his help in regaining his throne. Henry certainly wasn't unwilling, but he was busy with engagements with the French and Spanish. Instead of his support, he sent MacMurrough with a letter of recommendation to Richard "Strongbow" FitzGilbert de Clare, Earl of Strigoil, a Welsh Cambro-Norman lord. Strongbow agreed to help, but for a price. He wanted MacMurrough's daughter, Aoife/Eve, and the right of succession to the kingdom of Leinster. But the price was too high so MacMurrough continued through Wales, seeking support from other nobles, and in 1167, he sailed home to Ireland with his small army.

Initially the campaign was successful and MacMurrough regained his throne, but soon things came to a standstill when it became known that O'Rourke and the new Ard Rí Ruairi O'Connor, also known as Rory O'Connor in historical texts, had allied themselves together. MacMurrough called on his allies, Robert Fitzstephen, Hervey de Montmorency and Maurice de Pendergast and a more serious invasion was planned. They arrived near Baginbun in today's County Wexford and the Great Anglo-Norman Invasion began. Their troops consisted of only 600 men, but among them were the famous Welsh longbows and a state of the art ring-armored cavalry. They joined what was left of MacMurrough's army and with an army of 1100 men successfully captured Wexford.

O'Connor and O'Rourke feared MacMurrough's sophisticated army so they decided to come to an agreement. They recognized MacMurrough as the King of Leinster and O'Connor as Ard Rí. But this didn't satisfy MacMurrough. He hungered for more power. He wanted to become Ard Rí and had no intention of keeping his promises. He found a new allegiance with O'Brian of Desmond, another O'Connor, and with the continued support of Fitzstephen they defeated Turlough O'Connor.

O'Connor and O'Rourke were now furious and prepared to retaliate. MacMurrough went back to Strongbow and urged him to come to Ireland, now promising him Aoife's hand in marriage. Strongbow sent a vanguard ahead in 1169, then finally arrived in Ireland himself on 23 August 1170. He arrived at Passage, which is across Waterford Harbour from Ballyhack, with approximately 200 knights and 1000 soldiers. They first captured Waterford then carried on to Wexford where he forced MacMurrough to honor his promise.


Marriage of Strongbow & Aoife
Daniel Maclise (1845)

The marriage took place at Reginald's Tower in Waterford City, though in Daniel Maclise's famous painting, the Marriage of Strongbow and Aoife (1854), it shows a backdrop of a smoldering church in ruins. It's assumed this scene takes place in Ferns, when in fact it's most probably in Waterford.

As part of Aoife's dowry, MacMurrough gave Strongbow his stronghold at the Rock of Dunamase (Carraig Dun Masc, "the fort of Masc" in Irish) in today's County Laois, and is today one of Ireland's most historic sites. There had been a fort here since the early 9th century. Vikings are recorded to have attacked in 845, killing the abbot of Terryglass. While there is no clear evidence that the site was occupied in the 10th and 11th centuries, a stone castle was eventually put up in the second half of the 12th century, most likely by Strongbow as MacMurrough's heir.

Soon, the battle moved to Dublin, a Viking semi-kingdom ruled by Askulv. At first, O'Connor and

O'Rourke joined with Viking forces, but changed their minds when the Vikings decided to back Strongbow. Despite ongoing negotiations, Dublin was attacked by Strongbow's army, led by Raymond Carew and Mila de Cogan. Dublin fell 21 September 1170. The establishment of a small Anglo-Norman colony known as The Pale marks the starting point of foreign rule over Ireland.

The term "pale" can be traced back to the word palisade, which is a common feature of a motte and bailey structure.

O'Connor and O'Rourke tried to retake The Pale, but Strongbow's grip was firm on the city. He first ousted the Vikings, most of them settling on the north bank of the River Liffey in Norse Town, today called Oxmantown and located behind Collins Barracks.

On MacMurrough's death on 1 May 1171, against the will of the people who supported MacMurrough's nephew and rightful heir, Murtough. Strongbow became the King of Leinster. Murtough joined with O'Rourke, O'Connor and the O'Carroll's of Ulster and made several attempts to dethrone Strongbow, but without success. Strongbow had secured his position as the King of Leinster.

It didn't take long for King Henry II to take notice of the power his man, Strongbow, had in Ireland. He panicked at the prospect being surrounded by enemies — France to the east, Spain to the south and now Ireland under Strongbow to the west. But the Lordship of Ireland, as granted by Pope Adrian IV in 1155 suddenly came in handy. By this designation, Ireland was Henry's property, and all he had to do was claim it. He took an army of 500 knights and 4000 horsemen, foot soldiers and archers with him to Ireland, arriving in Waterford in October 1171. This power play was to allay Strongbow's aspirations and to keep him on a short leash. He demanded the submission of the Irish chieftains, and without much effort, all of the Irish kings, except Cenel Eogain and Cenel Conaill, gave their fealty. Henry granted his men of Bristol the inhabitants of Dublin all of the liberties and free customs they had in Bristol and throughout his entire land then returned to England.

But Henry's generosity had no meaning beyond the Pale. Anglo-Norman authority outside the colony was nonexistent. In fact, after claiming ownership of Ireland in 1171, Henry ignored Ireland until 1185 when he used the island to settle a case of sibling rivalry in the royal family. His fourth legitimate son, John, felt neglected because his brothers had received territories from Henry and he received nothing. To stop his nagging, Henry granted John, nicknamed John Lackland, the title of Lord of Ireland. John's ruled over Ireland was a total failure and left after only six months.

O'Connor looked at the fast expansion of the Norman foreigners with great sorrow. He tried to turn the tide by waging battle against Strongbow, but the war was doomed to fail. So in 1175, he went into negotiations with Henry and signed what came to be known as the Treaty of Windsor. By this treaty, O'Connor became the monarch of all unconquored areas of Ireland, but in return, recognized Henry II as his overlord and was obliged to pay him an annual tribute.

However, nothing is ever this simple, as O'Connor came to learn. As Ard Rí, he had little decision making authority when it came to the authority over the land. That responsibility fell to his lesser kings. In order to give himself decision making power, he abdicated his title of Ard Rí and made himself the King of Connaught, giving up territorial claims on Leinster, Meath, Waterford and Wexford.

When Strongbow died on 20 April 1176, the kingship of Leinster was transferred to Henry II. The fifth province of Míde, Meath, was included in Leinster, and by this, the fifth province no longer exits today.

Henry II was often depicted as a strong and fair monarch, and never thought his son John was a cruel and greedy young man. By a cruel twist of fate John come King of England in 1199. When he returned to Ireland, everything was different. John didn't hesitate to throw his power around. He ordered several Norman style castles to be built in strategic areas around Ireland, including King John's Castle in Limerick, as well as a fortress in Naas, County Kildare; King John's Castle in Carlingford, County Louth, aka Carlingford Castle; a keep in Athenry, County Galway; and Ireland's largest castle, Trim Castle in County Meath.

Some estimate that by 1250 the Anglo-Normans controlled about 75% of Ireland, while others assume that in the sixteenth century about 40% of Ireland was owned by Anglo-Norman and English settlers.

A period of eight centuries of foreign oppression had begun for the Irish. All started by a provincial king seeking aid to maintain his throne.

Ferns today

Visitors to Ferns today will find one of Ireland's official Heritage Towns. The number of ancient ruins are obvious when passing through the village.

The oldest ruins are located on the north side of the village and include the 12th century ruins of St. Mary's Augustinian Priory, which is located behind the graveyard. Little remains of the priory but the crumbling walls and the belfry, which, while still retaining the circular stairs into it, has been gated off for security.

St. Peter's Church is little more than a small nave and chancel church. The date of construction is unknown. It's surrounded by graveyard on two sides. On one side there are three High Crosses which are expected to date back to the 12th century. King Dermot MacMurrough is said to be buried somewhere on these grounds and one of these crosses is expected to be his.

The ruins of the 13th century Ferns Cathedral can be seen behind St. Peter's. What remains to day is an impressive wall of windows to one side, and contains the original holy water font, which is engraved with a High Cross on the front.

Maodhóg's Well can be seen across the road from this part of the site. There is a small stone hut built over it.

There are other minor ruins around this part of the village, but the remaining ruin of note is at the other end of town on the top of the hill. Ferns Castle.

The castle dates back to the 13th century and was probably built by William Marshall, son in law of Richard de Clare and Aoife, who was regarded as the Greatest Knight in England. The castle was originally squarely built with towers on each of the four corners. The castle had three floors, the upper two being residential apartments. A grand fireplace is still intact and can be seen on the eastern wall. It has recently seen some restoration, as the mantel and supports have been resurfaced and now show off the natural colors of the sandstone and granite stonework. The fireplace is flanked by a pair of intact windows along with their original window seats.

There is one surviving tower, which has been restored with new floors. Visitors will see some fine ornamentation, remaining fireplaces and a vaulted basement. During archaeological excavations between 1972-1975 a cut-rock ditch was discovered around the outside of the castle walls, and a drawbridge structure was found on the south side of the keep...todays entrance into the site.

Ferns Castle was destroyed in 1649 during Oliver Cromwell's campaign through Ireland. What remains today are a half tower over the keeps water well, a find detail of windows on the southern wall, the southeastern tower and the eastern wall. The interior of the keep is completely gutted otherwise.


12th century St. Mary's Priory


12th/13th century High Crosses


St. Peter's Church


13th century Ferns Cathedral


Ancient water font


Ferns Castle - side view


First floor fireplace


South wall windows


Gargoyle
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~ Free attraction
~ Parking available
~ limited access to cathedral site

 

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